Yup, this is the lens I am saving up for now. Previously I have been seriously thinking about getting the older 24-70mm f2.8L, but realize that this lens will be a typical carry around lens meaning that IS will be very handy too. So I'd rather loose one stop of light and gain 2-3 faster shutterspeed steps instead on this new lens. From the reviews this lens is very sharp wide open too, meaning that it would do excellently as a portrait lens too. It is also the perfect zoom for a full frame camera if I ever can afford the new Canon 5D camera. My 17-40mm is actually 27mm on my 1.6 crop 20D, and I have kinda gotten used to that being my "landscape" wideangle. On a fullframe the new lenses 24mm will be even better, and even more a typical walkaround lens. Just have to start saving up some money now! :)
Friday, December 02, 2005
Canon 24-105mm f4L IS lens
Yup, this is the lens I am saving up for now. Previously I have been seriously thinking about getting the older 24-70mm f2.8L, but realize that this lens will be a typical carry around lens meaning that IS will be very handy too. So I'd rather loose one stop of light and gain 2-3 faster shutterspeed steps instead on this new lens. From the reviews this lens is very sharp wide open too, meaning that it would do excellently as a portrait lens too. It is also the perfect zoom for a full frame camera if I ever can afford the new Canon 5D camera. My 17-40mm is actually 27mm on my 1.6 crop 20D, and I have kinda gotten used to that being my "landscape" wideangle. On a fullframe the new lenses 24mm will be even better, and even more a typical walkaround lens. Just have to start saving up some money now! :)
New Wacom Intuos3 A5 (6x8) Tablet
Finally ordered myself a tablet that I have been wanting for a long time! If you do extensive work in Photoshop you will definitely benefit from one of these. Being able to do precise selections and paint masks with a pen is so much better than fiddling with the mouse and trying to move it the right way. The supplied pen is also pretty broad so its less of a strain to hold than a normal pencil. The pressure sensitivety works wonders in photoshop where you can do very small details by applying pressure. Especially important for masks. It also has a number of shortcut keys as well as two touch strips. I have mapped some of the buttons to common photoshop shortcuts such TAB for switching between full screen and normal, as well as undo and some others. Defaultly the left shortcuts are well specified with Alt, Ctrl, Shift and Space. That way you can do quite a lot of work without even touching the keyboard. The left touch strip I use for zooming, which works well, and the right I plan to map to pensize adjustments. I wont be using the supplied mouse since I already have a good bluetooth mouse with the Logitech Dinovo keyboard. The size of the tablet is just right, A6 was too small and A4 was too big imo, so the A5 (6x8) size fits me perfectly. Its definitely a digital photographers must have tool!
Someone is spamming my blog
A company is consistently spamming my blog with comments to visit their webpage, so I am closing the ability for non-members to comment. You have to register to be able to comment now. I am pretty sick and tired of people who spam like this, they have no respect whatsoever of other peoples time and need. So if you see a posting that doesnt make sense and links to another site, dont click it or you will be supporting this idiotic spammer!
Tuesday, March 08, 2005
The ultimate online game!
Friday, March 04, 2005
New LCD monitor, PC, and baby! :)
Its been a while since my last post now, and much has happened. The Canon 20D is a really great camera and I recommend it to anyone needing a semi-pro camera. Canon has also released the new 350D camera which seems like a nice starter camera. Good thing it also comes in black since I felt the grey plastic was a bit cheesy.
I guess the greatest news is becoming a father to a little baby girl! But since this is a blog about photography and related issues I wont go into the specs. :) Its everything a baby can be, except the special little thing that I'm the father. Couldnt be more happy, she is truly beautiful!
Well, I borrowed a Canon 380EX flash from my brother to try it out for some indoor baby shots, and must say I have changed my view on flash photography. When using a white ceiling as a reflector, its simple to take hand held ISO 100 shots at shutter 1/60. Got some very nice shots of mother and child with this simple setup and I guess a flash is whats in store next for my photography gear. Except that I spent all my savings on a new computer instead. :)
Yeah, first a new excellent screen, a Dell 2001FP 20" LCD! Its a very good IPS panel, the same one NEC use in its excellent 2080UX screen. But at almost half the price you cant beat the the Dell deal. It has gotten some critique for the backpanel light coming through a bit, and they are right, blacks arent completely black. But still its pretty close to perfect in color reproduction according to colorimeter tests that has been done. Be warned that a lot of LCDs today dont have true 24 bit color resolution, but actually 18 bit and emulate the colors inbetween with an algorithm that shifts colors on each pixel. A good sign is to look for a screen that has 16,7 million colors and not 16,2 (which is the 18 bit panels). The Dell screen is very nice and big, with a 1600x1200 resolution which is brilliant for working with photography. When I reviewed my photos on it for the first time I felt I was looking on slides again. This high resolution and brightness surely makes the pictures come alive compared to my 3-year old LG CRT. LCD has come a long way over the last years and you cant go wrong with the 20" Dell 2001FP! If you do have more money to burn, go for the NEC 2080UX which is even better.
The Dell 20" has both VGA and DVI inputs, but from reviews and experience, the VGA input is not very good. I'm sure its ok, but once you experience this screen with a DVI signal you'll know what I mean. Since my old graphics board, a GeForce3 Ti500, only had a VGA output I had to look for another card. I had wanted to upgrade it anyway since I like playing games now and then. So the decision fell for the new 6600GT which is good value for money. Since i also wanted to leave the old AGP world for the new PCI-Express systems I also got a new motherboard and a new CPU. The motherboard, an Asus P5GD1, is a very nice package at a decent price, and the CPU, an Intel 530J 3.0 GHz is good enough performance. Why pay almost triple the money for something that is 0.6 GHz faster? I already had a 1GB matched pair of 512MB PC3200 memory sticks in my old system so they went over in the new system, doing what they were made for, dual rate running at 800 MHz!
The new computer system is very nice to work with, and more responsive than my old, absolutely excellent for photography editing in Photoshop. I have some more ideas for the system which I will comment here in a later blog. But for now, please come with questions or comments if you have em, I'm always happy for some feedback.
I guess the greatest news is becoming a father to a little baby girl! But since this is a blog about photography and related issues I wont go into the specs. :) Its everything a baby can be, except the special little thing that I'm the father. Couldnt be more happy, she is truly beautiful!
Well, I borrowed a Canon 380EX flash from my brother to try it out for some indoor baby shots, and must say I have changed my view on flash photography. When using a white ceiling as a reflector, its simple to take hand held ISO 100 shots at shutter 1/60. Got some very nice shots of mother and child with this simple setup and I guess a flash is whats in store next for my photography gear. Except that I spent all my savings on a new computer instead. :)
The Dell 20" has both VGA and DVI inputs, but from reviews and experience, the VGA input is not very good. I'm sure its ok, but once you experience this screen with a DVI signal you'll know what I mean. Since my old graphics board, a GeForce3 Ti500, only had a VGA output I had to look for another card. I had wanted to upgrade it anyway since I like playing games now and then. So the decision fell for the new 6600GT which is good value for money. Since i also wanted to leave the old AGP world for the new PCI-Express systems I also got a new motherboard and a new CPU. The motherboard, an Asus P5GD1, is a very nice package at a decent price, and the CPU, an Intel 530J 3.0 GHz is good enough performance. Why pay almost triple the money for something that is 0.6 GHz faster? I already had a 1GB matched pair of 512MB PC3200 memory sticks in my old system so they went over in the new system, doing what they were made for, dual rate running at 800 MHz!
The new computer system is very nice to work with, and more responsive than my old, absolutely excellent for photography editing in Photoshop. I have some more ideas for the system which I will comment here in a later blog. But for now, please come with questions or comments if you have em, I'm always happy for some feedback.
Friday, October 29, 2004
Canon 20D arrives !!!
Woo Yay! (As we say at IStockphoto) The 20D finally arrived after a month of waiting for Canon to be able to deliver the camera house by itself here in Norway. My first impression after one evening of playing with it is that its a good upgrade from the 10D. First, its almost identically built with some minor changes to the buttons and layouts - mostly for the better. Second, its amazingly fast and when shooting it seems to be finished writing before I start looking on the screen. It powers on instantly and feels extremely responsive. I use SanDisk Ultra cards since these are the fastest according to Rob Galbraiths tests. With the 20D I cant see me having to wait on the camera any more.
I have not yet made any image tests to see how good the pictures are but my first trials show that its less noisy at ISO 800 and 1600, which was as expected. It also seems to cope better with keeping highlights and avoiding the abruptness of over exposure that was so common on the 10D. It focuses very quickly and works brilliantly with my 70-200 f2.8L IS. The improved focusing on f2.8 lenses is probably kicking in, but it also feels more responsive on my 17-40mm f4 lens. However, it still doesnt focus right on the wide end which makes me think that my lens have a defect. I'll have to check this out some more.
The user interface in the menus are clear and understandable. In some ways better than the 10D. Its also far more responsive than the 10D, especially when browsing images. Its also nice that I dont have to wait for it to finish writing everything in the buffer before I can access the menu or playback functions.
Its lighter and a tiny bit smaller, but it feels just right for my hands. I guess the 10D was a bit more comfortable to hold for people with long fingers, but I dont have that problem. If I should pick on something it would be that the mode dial feels cheaper and more plastic than before, its also a bit loose. The same thing goes for the CF slot which is also a bit loose. The joystick feels a little strange at first but I guess I will get used to it. Its surely a better way to move about images than the button/wheel combo on the 10D. Its also a very good for adjusting the focus points quickly.
The 20D shoots away like no other camera I have used. It feels like a small machinegun when it fires away at 5 shots a second. I actually had to turn the mode to single shot now more often simply because I ended up firing two shots instead of one. On the 10D its a bit slower so you could have the mode on multiple shot always.
The only thing I miss from the camera is a faster way to switch on and off the mirror lockup function since I use this more often. I also assume mirror lockup will be even more useful in the 20D since the mirror slap feels a bit more heavier than the 10D (although I have no proof for this).
All in all a very nice camera! Looking forward to take some real pictures with it.
I have not yet made any image tests to see how good the pictures are but my first trials show that its less noisy at ISO 800 and 1600, which was as expected. It also seems to cope better with keeping highlights and avoiding the abruptness of over exposure that was so common on the 10D. It focuses very quickly and works brilliantly with my 70-200 f2.8L IS. The improved focusing on f2.8 lenses is probably kicking in, but it also feels more responsive on my 17-40mm f4 lens. However, it still doesnt focus right on the wide end which makes me think that my lens have a defect. I'll have to check this out some more.
The user interface in the menus are clear and understandable. In some ways better than the 10D. Its also far more responsive than the 10D, especially when browsing images. Its also nice that I dont have to wait for it to finish writing everything in the buffer before I can access the menu or playback functions.
Its lighter and a tiny bit smaller, but it feels just right for my hands. I guess the 10D was a bit more comfortable to hold for people with long fingers, but I dont have that problem. If I should pick on something it would be that the mode dial feels cheaper and more plastic than before, its also a bit loose. The same thing goes for the CF slot which is also a bit loose. The joystick feels a little strange at first but I guess I will get used to it. Its surely a better way to move about images than the button/wheel combo on the 10D. Its also a very good for adjusting the focus points quickly.
The 20D shoots away like no other camera I have used. It feels like a small machinegun when it fires away at 5 shots a second. I actually had to turn the mode to single shot now more often simply because I ended up firing two shots instead of one. On the 10D its a bit slower so you could have the mode on multiple shot always.
The only thing I miss from the camera is a faster way to switch on and off the mirror lockup function since I use this more often. I also assume mirror lockup will be even more useful in the 20D since the mirror slap feels a bit more heavier than the 10D (although I have no proof for this).
All in all a very nice camera! Looking forward to take some real pictures with it.
Thursday, October 28, 2004
IStockaholic
Up to half a year ago I mostly did photography as a hobby, going for long walks in the mountains always bringing my camera to shoot whatever I came over. Digital photography has enabled me to create photos at a higher rate than I would ever have imagined, filling up the harddisk in no time. But thats a different story all together.
My wife, family and friends kept saying that they loved my pictures and that I should start showing them to the world instead of having them lying around on my computer and some of the better ones hanging on the walls. I never really thought about it that way and wondered if I should try to show them in a gallery or something. After some months I started reading more about online stock photography sites and came to like the idea of uploading a picture, having it sold over and over again and making some money. Digital photography is becoming increasingly an expensive hobby, and I saw that my "wish-list" at B&H was growing faster than I would ever be able to afford as I ventured into different styles of photography.
I started looking around and tried an online stock agency where I could upload a small version of the picture and if there was any sale the buyer would contact me through the agency. I would get paid according to the use, so a sale could mean anything between $50 to $1000. I uploaded some pictures, nothing spectacular, about 10 pictures, and waited... Nothing happened, not a single sale still. I got impatient and thought I'll have to try more places. After some time I found another place www.shutterpoint.com where I could upload a full JPG version and set the price as I wished. It had a system where people could rate your pictures too, and it was quite fun to watch which pictures was considered good. Eventually I saw that the site seemed overly focused on the rating thing, and everybody gave 9 or 10's out of kindness - even really bad grainy out of focus pictures got good ratings from some just because they had rated kindly to others. I realised that there was just too many bad pictures there for buyers to even find the good stuff - hence less sales. In the 5 months I have been there I've sold two pictures at $25 each. Not much but at least some.
Well, then I found another place: www.istockphoto.com which I immediately fell in love with. It had its own pricing policy depending on the size of the download and each image had to be approved by an image inspector. And from the quality I saw there I knew they were very picky about the quality. I got sales almost immediately after my first uploads and I was quite hooked, regulartly uploading and checking sales. It was really addictive - and still is. Now the only gripe I have about this place is the royalty I get - only 20% of the sale! Thats not much, especially when you think of the prices where a high res picture is sold for $1.50 - veeery cheap in other words. I can imagine this place as a big blessing for designers and it opens up a marked untouched before. Thats why it is a successful business too with an amazing number of downloads every hour. I immediately noticed the popularity of this place when one of my pictures was chosen "Image Of The Week" (IOTW) with the picture placed on the front page after login. This picture is now closing 200 downlads in under a month and is set to go for the most popular page soon (it actually was there before as one of the higher rated pictures with pure 5/5 ratings until I got one 3/5 rating from one guy that dropped me off the list).
At IStockPhoto we have an expression - IStockaholic - and I must confess I am one, visiting the site several times a day to see whats selling and talk in the community which is an excellent one. If you are a designer you will love this place - you cant get better stock photography for such low prices anywhere. If you are a photographer you have to decide if you feel a 20% cut is fair. Still you will be competing with some very fine photographers, some having over 90.000 downlowads by now. In time those cents will make you a dollar... :)
My wife, family and friends kept saying that they loved my pictures and that I should start showing them to the world instead of having them lying around on my computer and some of the better ones hanging on the walls. I never really thought about it that way and wondered if I should try to show them in a gallery or something. After some months I started reading more about online stock photography sites and came to like the idea of uploading a picture, having it sold over and over again and making some money. Digital photography is becoming increasingly an expensive hobby, and I saw that my "wish-list" at B&H was growing faster than I would ever be able to afford as I ventured into different styles of photography.
I started looking around and tried an online stock agency where I could upload a small version of the picture and if there was any sale the buyer would contact me through the agency. I would get paid according to the use, so a sale could mean anything between $50 to $1000. I uploaded some pictures, nothing spectacular, about 10 pictures, and waited... Nothing happened, not a single sale still. I got impatient and thought I'll have to try more places. After some time I found another place www.shutterpoint.com where I could upload a full JPG version and set the price as I wished. It had a system where people could rate your pictures too, and it was quite fun to watch which pictures was considered good. Eventually I saw that the site seemed overly focused on the rating thing, and everybody gave 9 or 10's out of kindness - even really bad grainy out of focus pictures got good ratings from some just because they had rated kindly to others. I realised that there was just too many bad pictures there for buyers to even find the good stuff - hence less sales. In the 5 months I have been there I've sold two pictures at $25 each. Not much but at least some.
Well, then I found another place: www.istockphoto.com which I immediately fell in love with. It had its own pricing policy depending on the size of the download and each image had to be approved by an image inspector. And from the quality I saw there I knew they were very picky about the quality. I got sales almost immediately after my first uploads and I was quite hooked, regulartly uploading and checking sales. It was really addictive - and still is. Now the only gripe I have about this place is the royalty I get - only 20% of the sale! Thats not much, especially when you think of the prices where a high res picture is sold for $1.50 - veeery cheap in other words. I can imagine this place as a big blessing for designers and it opens up a marked untouched before. Thats why it is a successful business too with an amazing number of downloads every hour. I immediately noticed the popularity of this place when one of my pictures was chosen "Image Of The Week" (IOTW) with the picture placed on the front page after login. This picture is now closing 200 downlads in under a month and is set to go for the most popular page soon (it actually was there before as one of the higher rated pictures with pure 5/5 ratings until I got one 3/5 rating from one guy that dropped me off the list).
At IStockPhoto we have an expression - IStockaholic - and I must confess I am one, visiting the site several times a day to see whats selling and talk in the community which is an excellent one. If you are a designer you will love this place - you cant get better stock photography for such low prices anywhere. If you are a photographer you have to decide if you feel a 20% cut is fair. Still you will be competing with some very fine photographers, some having over 90.000 downlowads by now. In time those cents will make you a dollar... :)
Saturday, June 26, 2004
New website online!
Finally finished the new website with some new pictures, a bit bigger layout and imagesize with titles and frames. Hope it also works on more browsers, I removed all fancy stuff that only worked on IE. Take a look and tell me what you think:
http://photo.lonningdal.net
http://photo.lonningdal.net
Thursday, June 24, 2004
In focus?
If you have been photographying for a while you might have come back after a nice trip only to find that that brilliant landscape shot has been ruined because either the things in the foreground or the distant background is out of focus! And you wonder because everything looked alright on the LCD screen when you took it. Hehe. Well everything looks fine on the LCD, and generally you cant judge an image by looking at the LCD - except the histogram to see if you have overexposed or underexposed.
So what you need is to know how you get everything in focus - from the little flower in the foreground to the snow-topped mountain in the background. As most of you know, stopping down the lens to e.g. f/22 will do the trick, but you are still not guaranteed to have what you want in focus. Its because the focus point needs to be correctly placed to get optimum depth of field (DOF). Normally this means you need to manually focus. The focus point you are looking for is called the Hyperfocal Distance and will ensure you the longest distance in focus. Naturally this changes based on the focal length (mm) and the f-stop. Fortunately this is pure math and no magic involved, and some people have been so nice to make an online tool for calculating the hyperfocal distance. Try the link below and enter focal length and f/stop, then press the Calculate DOF button. The Hyperfocal distance will be shown. You can enter this in the Focus Distance and see that it will show you the closest Near Depth you get with Infinite Far Depth (thats where the snow-topped mountain is).
http://www.dudak.baka.com/dofcalc.html
For my 17-40mm, while shooting at 17mm, if I focus at hyperfocal which is 0.525 meters, I get everything from 0.263 meters to infinite in focus! Now that should bring everything in focus. Of course you also need a tripod for shots at f/22 or your images will be all blurry from camera shake. No point in fuzzying with hyperfocal distance then.
Note however that many lenses have a sweet spot where they perform best, that means that image quality is generally best at this f stop. On most lenses this is around f/8 and f/11. So if my foreground starts at around 1 meter you dont need to shoot at f/22 to get everything sharp. Actually, if I shoot with my 17mm at f/11 at the focus distance of 1 meter I get everything from half a meter in front all the way to the back in focus.
I've ruined one too many shot by relying on autofocus so now I am keeping a table for reference so that I can quickly find the hyperfocal distance at each f-stop at the most used mm ranges (usually this is 17mm).
So what you need is to know how you get everything in focus - from the little flower in the foreground to the snow-topped mountain in the background. As most of you know, stopping down the lens to e.g. f/22 will do the trick, but you are still not guaranteed to have what you want in focus. Its because the focus point needs to be correctly placed to get optimum depth of field (DOF). Normally this means you need to manually focus. The focus point you are looking for is called the Hyperfocal Distance and will ensure you the longest distance in focus. Naturally this changes based on the focal length (mm) and the f-stop. Fortunately this is pure math and no magic involved, and some people have been so nice to make an online tool for calculating the hyperfocal distance. Try the link below and enter focal length and f/stop, then press the Calculate DOF button. The Hyperfocal distance will be shown. You can enter this in the Focus Distance and see that it will show you the closest Near Depth you get with Infinite Far Depth (thats where the snow-topped mountain is).
http://www.dudak.baka.com/dofcalc.html
For my 17-40mm, while shooting at 17mm, if I focus at hyperfocal which is 0.525 meters, I get everything from 0.263 meters to infinite in focus! Now that should bring everything in focus. Of course you also need a tripod for shots at f/22 or your images will be all blurry from camera shake. No point in fuzzying with hyperfocal distance then.
Note however that many lenses have a sweet spot where they perform best, that means that image quality is generally best at this f stop. On most lenses this is around f/8 and f/11. So if my foreground starts at around 1 meter you dont need to shoot at f/22 to get everything sharp. Actually, if I shoot with my 17mm at f/11 at the focus distance of 1 meter I get everything from half a meter in front all the way to the back in focus.
I've ruined one too many shot by relying on autofocus so now I am keeping a table for reference so that I can quickly find the hyperfocal distance at each f-stop at the most used mm ranges (usually this is 17mm).
Monday, June 14, 2004
The dangers of f2.8 L glass
Well, having been using the new 70-200mm for some time now I must say I am very satisfied with this lens. Sure its heavy and expensive but its worth every penny if you are serious about your photography.
However, if you are coming from the average f4.5-5.6 world of consumer lenses, going to f2.8 kind of glass can make you do some mistakes. Once you have such a light sensitive lens its tempting to keep shooting at f2.8 without thinking about the concequences. Although I have been used to this aperture with my 100mm macro lens, the macro was often used in more planned shoots, closeups and tripod shots. The 70-200mm has IS and it works brilliantly handheld. However, if you are not careful, shooting at f2.8 can ruin your pictures. You have to remember that the Depth Of Field (DOF) is very shallow, which also means your focus has to be spot on. Fortunately this lens is both quick and accurate when it comes to focusing. However, there are many times I have focused at an area that was deep into the object I wanted i focus, effectively rendering the front part of the object unfocused. Unfortunately you cant see this on the LCD since everything looks alright there. You just have to think about it and make sure you focus at the foremost part (or actually a little bit further than that might work too).
Just so that you were warned! It takes practice to shoot at f2.8 and get good results. You especially need to think quickly when shooting on the move.
However, if you are coming from the average f4.5-5.6 world of consumer lenses, going to f2.8 kind of glass can make you do some mistakes. Once you have such a light sensitive lens its tempting to keep shooting at f2.8 without thinking about the concequences. Although I have been used to this aperture with my 100mm macro lens, the macro was often used in more planned shoots, closeups and tripod shots. The 70-200mm has IS and it works brilliantly handheld. However, if you are not careful, shooting at f2.8 can ruin your pictures. You have to remember that the Depth Of Field (DOF) is very shallow, which also means your focus has to be spot on. Fortunately this lens is both quick and accurate when it comes to focusing. However, there are many times I have focused at an area that was deep into the object I wanted i focus, effectively rendering the front part of the object unfocused. Unfortunately you cant see this on the LCD since everything looks alright there. You just have to think about it and make sure you focus at the foremost part (or actually a little bit further than that might work too).
Just so that you were warned! It takes practice to shoot at f2.8 and get good results. You especially need to think quickly when shooting on the move.
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